The U.S.Navy’s original Pea Coat was fabricated from a heavy 36-ounce melton wool, and up until the late 1930s featured black urea buttons displaying an anchor surrounded by 13 stars; the 13 stars were derived from the original 13 states when the United States became an independent nation and broke its ties to England in 1776.
The large-sized collar of the coat was designed to block strong ocean winds and the corduroy-lined side pockets helped thwart the numbing effect on hands from the biting winter seas.
By the late 1930s, the officer’s coats were redesigned: the heavy melton wool was relegated only for the enlisted ranks’ Pea Coats and the 13-star buttons were changed to the fouled-anchor design still employed to this day.
Clearly, it was WWII that catapulted the Pea Coat to iconic status, as sailors, home on leave or traveling to their next duty could be seen in every town, and then there was the war bond poster of the Five Sullivan boys; an inspiring image forever frozen in time with all five handsomely attired in their winter blues and Pea Coats.
After WWII, the Pea Coat became widely worn among the civilian population of the USA due to the vast number of discharged sailors who continued to wear their issue coats and the availability of issue coats sold via Army/Navy surplus stores. The popularity of this coat grew increasingly in the post-WWII decades and has remained an iconic staple in the wardrobe of any well-dressed man or woman to this day. Pea Coats exist in many forms now, most of which are some sort of fashion mutation, and all pale in weight and quality of fabric and construction to the issue garments produced prior to the late 1950s – except this Buzz Rickson masterpiece!
Once again, the brand has resurrected a bygone treasure, utilising the vintage looms and know-how to craft fabrics not seen in 50 years or more, then deftly sewing the pieces together with vintage Union Special sewing machines to provide a finished product that comes as close to the vintage garment.
What we end up with is a Pea Coat that transcends fashion by light years and bolts straight to the heart of classic style through the very functionality of the original design that has been so deftly reproduced.
This Pea Coat is no light-weight fashion statement - it’s the genuine GI deal made from 36-ounce kersey wool and lined with heavy rayon (both of which minimize loss of body heat and will wear as ferociously as the Pea Coats that won WWII).
• Exact copy of original U. S. Naval Clothing Factory contract label design woven on rayon
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy-weight, 36-ounce, melton-wool outer shell in navy blue and produced on vintage looms
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy rayon lining with two interior pockets
• Cotton thread construction
• Two external hand-warmer pockets lined in the original spec heavy-weight corduroy
• Original spec 10-button front featuring the pre-WWII urea buttons displaying an anchor surrounded by 13 stars
• Large wind-blocking collar with throat latch
• Made in Japan
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